Farm Review from Fazenda Floresta

"......a farm that feels like its progressing and moving forwards in the specialty and quality......."

Carrying of from yesterdays work another post on one of the farms from my Bahia trip last week. This is from the neighbouring farm to Aranquan floresta is a farm I know quite well.

Farm Name: Fazenda Floresta
Producers Name:Nelson Ribeiro
Region:Chapada Diamantina
Altitude:1050 to 1200 meters above sea level
Varieties Grown:Bourbon, Catura, Java, Pacamara, obertan, topia
Last visit: November 2009

Report: Since the last visit in 2009 much of the work has been done in upgrading drying patio facilities. This is part of an ongoing program in the farm to raise the quality of production. The cupping lab that was set up on the last visit has continued to be used with monthly cuppings being held where every one joins in. Junior (nelsons oldest son) has participated in a in depth course to understand cupping and sample roasting which has been valuable while setting up the lab.

Newly planted growth from the last visit has continued to thrive and the whole farm is looking incredibly healthy. Grivilia (a shade tree) has been planted all over the farm to help with shade and as a pest deterrent.

A project to grow passionfruit in between the coffee plants has also started. Although competing in the same soils there root structure is different and harvest periods opposite ends of the year. So a small test section has been set up.

Planting of a varietal called oberertan has produced its first harvest. This varietal has very elongated branches that tend to fruit towards the ends. It is not known how this plant will react to the conditions of Bahia and in particular Floresta but we hope to see some early samples soon. Also planting of a pacamara and java where we should see the samples of this experiment although there will be no commercial offering until after these tests and more planting

The Bourbon trees that Has Bean bought all the crop from last year have thrived in the past 11 months and are looking very healthy. In spite of this, disappointingly the crop has underperformed producing less that last year. It seems the bourbon tree is not a fan of high yields and organic farming, and it seems that it is very difficult to grow in these growing conditions. Plans to extend the bourbon plants by a 1000 have been put on hold because of this, and maybe put off completely.

Instead of planting more Bourbon Nelson has allowed me to choose what to plant, in a mini Fazenda Has Bean Project. I have suggested two to Nelson who will go see if he can get the seedlings to start it off, and will be a Has Bean Exclusive.

The farm in general looks amazing and much work have been done over the past twelve months, investment of money time and energy is starting to pay off.

Cupping of the naturals, pulp naturals and washed were interesting so early in the season. The naturals stood out for special praise, you could taste the attention to detail.

All in all a farm that feels like its progressing and moving forwards in the specialty and quality.

Farm Review from Fazenda Aranquan

"......so for this trip I've done like a farm review on every farm I visited and I'm putting together a little video slide show of photos...."

So from past trips I tend to do like a travel diary and this time I decided it was time to change that. so for this trip I’ve done like a farm review on every farm I visited and I’m putting together a little video slide show of photos with a voice over from there.

This is the first time I’ve done this so please be forgiving as I learn a new bit of video stuff.

Farm Name: Fazenda aranquan
Producers Name:Luca Allegro
Region:Chapada Diamantina
Altitude:1050 to 1200 meters above sea level
Varieties Grown:Catura, Acaua, catucai 144, catucai, catura
Last visit: November 2009

Report: Since the last visit in 2009 like the neighboring Floresta much of the work has been done in upgrading drying patio facilities. This farm has gone a major overhaul and lots of the old plant stock removed and lots (and I mean lots) of new planting. Luca has hosted me on both of my trips to the Diamantina but last year had little to show me because of the new planting. Its a similar story this year but its amazing to be involved with the farm so early in its development. The one offering we did get chance to look at was the Catura washed coffee from the older plants. Processed by Nelson from fazenda floresta (these farms have very close links) its one of the best washed brazils I’ve tasted in a very long time. Pending samples back home I think this will be a huge coffee for us next year.

New planting involve catucai 144 which is gives just red fruit (as opposed to catucai normal which produces both coloured fruits) and Acaua which produces 40% peaberry. Another exciting coffee we cupped was the peaberry from this and the catura, I cupped the natural one and it was a very special cup. There were some discussions that they pulped natural and natural may not be able to be split, but we will see if we can twist some arms to make this happen.

I think in the coming years we will see more of this farm, its a baby at the moment but has the potential / plant stock / skills / processing to make some very grown up coffees.

Lovely Customers

".... I have the best customers in the world. ...."

A little thing, but very lovely sent to me by a lovely customer, made me smile :) Still think I have the best customers in the world.

Made me smile some one would do that for me. I like, I like it a lot.

More Updates from Brazil

".....So good picking is just as important as good growing and roasting......"

These photos are a few weeks old now, but I thought I should still share them. There from Fazenda Floresta in Bahia and its showing me how much work they need to do to pick.

Floresta Colour Range

Luca sent this through as an email

“The “scale” of ripeness goes from the green to the black …as in that picture(above).

It goes from the green to the ‘’yellowish green’’ (which will not be as astringent as the green), then to orange, then light red, vivid red…. into the purple…. After that it will dehydrate into, dry, parched fruit … and finally black.

Normally, commodity like processed coffee will wait for the point in which the ‘’ average ‘’ is more in the middle range, and take all the fruits.

Selective, quality oriented picking will pass and pick the ripe one a few times over a period time – in our case, in a not so cold year, pass again every 8 to 10 days. In a year of lower temperatures, every 15 days or so. But even among the ‘’ripe’’ ones, you have the red and the purple… Which will have more time to concentrate the sugar while still in the tree – ‘’alive’’ – as opposed to the ripe ones in the drying patio. The metabolism still on but starts to perish… the older people, or the popular knowledge if you wish, recognize the purple the perfect point… I am not sure. (see photo below)”

Floresta False Ripe

(The ones on the right are good and ready)

So good picking is just as important as good growing and roasting.

Floresta healthy high yeild

Brazil Fazenda Terramater update

"......this is why its worth while visiting origin, spending the time expressing what you would like to find out with farmers so they can put it together, no matter how crazy the requests are......"

Those who are eagle eyed may have seen me pop some pictures up on my flickr account last Saturday evening of some coffee cherry’s.

After being out for the evening I returned home to find an email from Fazenda Terramater with a couple of photos of a special project they have done for me without asking.

On my visit last year, I saw a whole heap of coffee bushes planted on the edge of the property underneath some huge old pine trees. I asked Luca who was translating for me to ask Adoedato if the pine cones and the trees by these plants made a difference to the final cup. As he asked Adoedato you could see from his face he thought what a stupid question and shrugged.

Now at the time of the visit we were not buying any coffee from Adoedato and I hadn’t even had a chance to cup it. It was only persistently asking for a sample after I got back and got a chance to cup it that we did buy it. So there was no reason for Adoedato to listen to anything the crazy gringo asked.

But Saturday night the photos below were in my inbox and the forest coffee under the tress is going to be kept separate this year to see if the pine cone fertilizer makes any difference to the final cup. I have no idea but the total production will be 1 bag if we are lucky so we are going to find out together :)

Brazil Teramater

Brazil Teramater

This is why its worth while visiting origin, spending the time expressing what you would like to find out with farmers so they can put it together, no matter how crazy the requests are.

In a few weeks time I’m back to Bahia for some more exploring and some more feedback on what we would like to see, its so cool to have this open channel of communication direct with the producers.

Leaf Rust

"..........I think there will be a real drop in quality of Colombian coffee with this kind of advice, and I do hope that farmers choose a different route.........."

In this weeks in my mug I talked about Leaf rust (roya) and the problems its causing on Colombia at the moment.

Leaf rust (roya) is a disease that effects the leaves and the yield of as coffee plant and its general health. Firstly found in 1869 in Ceylon (now known as sri lanka). Ceylon was a huge coffee producer at the time, but because of the rust they ripped most of their coffee plant stock, and planted tea. Kind of good for them as they became one of the tea producing giants, but this was not the end of the disease.

Colombia Leaf Rust

From Ceylon the next place for rust to be cited is in the 1870, where it spread to sumatra and Java and the Indonesian isles. This was devastating and saw a change of varietals that were planted as a way of combating the problem.

From Asia the next place this was to Tanzania and Madagascar in the 1880’s. Interestingly not making it to west africa until 1956 which seems very strange to go from this rampant spread to stop spreading (but still having a very strong foothold in the places where its found).

Colombia Leaf Rust

It seemed that South / central America was immune from this spread, but then in 1970 it was reported in Brazil and from there rapidly to all south / central American producing countries.

It is transported by a powder that is attached to the plant (like pollen) and is carried through the air, on clothes by people and by insects, and once it begins to take hold then it really does go rampant.

A lot of effort was put into finding a coffee that was naturally immune from the disease, and it was found that strains like Liberica and robusta have a higher resistance to the roya but arabica is very very susceptible to it is weak against rust. Lots of cross breading has produced some more immune strains, but normally at the cost of cup quality.
Colombia Leaf Rust
It is believed that high shade very wet high humidity conditions also add to the risk of roya.

Talking to a friend who has just returned from Colombia roya seems to be rampant, and there is a real problem they are trying to deal with. You can spray the plants with a copper based fungicides but no one likes spraying things and these fungicides are expensive and in short supply. The other way is to plant varietals that are less susceptible. There are many alternatives but advice given to farmers in an article I was sent was to plant Catimore, which as part of a mixed plant stock is fine (and we have seen some great ones) but on its own rarely produces quality coffee.

I think there will be a real drop in quality of Colombian coffee with this kind of advice, and I do hope that farmers choose a different route, the new Colombian we have just stocked is trying F6 which has more promise of quality.

In Colombia low yields because of weather issue have been a problem for a while, with this problem prices for Colombia are in essence double of that the markets are showing and I only think it will get worse

As I said I talked about this on this weeks in my mug see below