My good friend Grant Rattray from Mercanta our importers shared a piece of work with us a few weeks back, and I thought it so interesting I asked if he would mind me sharing it with you.

I hope you enjoy

Kenya’s coffee auction system dates back to 1934. The auctions still take place at the Nairobi Coffee Exchange and are widely considered to be most transparent distribution system for fine green coffees anywhere in the coffee world and inspired the model for the Cup of Excellence auctions.
 
Coffee growing was introduced in Kenya by the British around 1900. In the 1950, several extremely successful hybrids from Scott Laboratories were introduced and these have largely replaced the original French Bourbon stock which had been brought to Kenya from neighbouring Ethiopia. The most well-known are SL28 and SL34 and are Bourbon varieties and lend Kenya the distinctive big body and winy blackcurrant notes for which it is famed.
 
Following independence from the British in 1963, Kenya organised their coffee industry around a weekly government-run open auction system. This transparent system is establishing a pricing hierarchy based on quality with finer lots fetching higher prices. There is now increasing competition for the better-known estates and co-ops and particularly for the AA grade beans. The grades are simply a measure of bean size, not of defect tolerance. AA is screen 17/18; AB is screen 15/16 with a tolerance for 10% below screen 15.
 
Ahead of each auction, samples of each lot are distributed to the 50 or so licensed exporters – or ‘members’ – of the Nairobi Coffee Exchange where they are cupped and sent on also to their customers. In this way, Mercanta receives samples for cupping in our laboratory. We then instruct our exporter on our preferred lots. An agent then bids on behalf of the exporter at the auction to secure the necessary lots.
 
Since late 2006, some of the restrictions governing the compulsory auction platform have been relaxed. Farmers maintained that the auction system encourages the existence of a long chain of middlemen who eroded the farmers’ income. Supporters of the auction, however, claimed that the auction promoted a price discovery mechanism. The government has licensed 32 independent marketing agents who are now permitted to sell directly to foreign green coffee buyers and bypass the auction system and trade on the open market. Until then, all Kenyan coffee at the auction had been sold through three marketing agents who demanded a fee from the grower for their services. These new licensees were required to fulfill certain criteria before being awarded their license including storage standards, safety and a bank guarantee to ensure farmers are paid.
 
Today, in 2008, many of the small farmers have yet to find path to the international market though this situation is changing steadily. The auction system, however, continues to run in parallel and is open to all producers.
 
Finally, we should point out that when buying through the auction system, it can be difficult to gather detailed information on the precise provenance of the coffee. We have visited some of the estates that we know well, such as Gethumbwini, but it is not always possible to achieve complete traceability on all lots. Again, this situation is changing as the market in Kenya – both through the auction and the new licensed marketing agents – adapts to the needs and demands of the specialty coffee roaster and their customers.

Time for another of these (I’m post crazy with the new blog don’t worry I’ll slow down soon.

I love doing these posts, I’m worried I’m running out of ones to do. If there is one you would like me to do in particular please let me know through the normal channels.

Varietal: Caturra
Related to: Red Bourbon
Origin: Brazil
Grows best at: 800meters or above
Type: Mutant (bourbon)
Prevalent in: Brazil /Costa Rica /Colombia
Predominant Colour: Red
Fruit size: Normal
Leaf Characteristics: Wide Like Bourbon stumpy
Botany: Mutant

Special Notes:

Originating in Brazil but not found so much there now, this is a mutant from the popular Bourbon varietal. Like Bourbon it shares many of its negative aspects, its not very pest resistant and can be difficult to grow. Its one big plus is its higher yield than Bourbon (over 200kg per hector).

Its other bonus is that it can be used as a high density planting areas, as much as 10,000 plants per hector (normally around 6,000 though) and as little as 1mtr apart.

Its also a dwarf varietal so is easier for picking etc.

Typical cup characteristics are low body, bright, with a typically sweet profile.

Links: mutation of Bourbon links to Vili Sarchi and Pacas

Examples: Nicaragua Los Altos,Colombia La Manuela 2009-2010 Crop,Guatemala Finca Vista Hermosa SHB Huehuetenango Michicoy Micro Lot,Bolivia Machacamarca BV Maria and Mario Andrade 2009

When checking through my varietal posts the other night I couldn’t believe I hadn’t done bourbon probably my favorite varietal of all. So here it is, Bourbon

Varietal: Bourbon

Related to: Heirloom

Origin: Bourbon Island

Grows best at: 800meters or above

Type: Heirloom

Prevalent in: All over the coffee growing world

Predominant Colour: Red yellow and orange but mainly red

Fruit size: Normal rounded

Leaf Characteristics: Wide Like and short

Botany: Heirloom

Special Notes:

Originating maybe on the Bourbon island or maybe Ethiopia, this varietal finds its way in to many sub varietals. At risk of pest and disease, and yield wise is decidedly average, but the cup profile tends to be anything but.

There is some evidence that the yellow bourbon gives a higher yield compared to its red and orange derivatives, although red it the most prevalent.

With very close links to SL28 and Typica and Cattura, bourbon because of its low yield in the right environment tends to produce a very high quality cup (there is evidence that the lower the yield the higher the quality as the plant can use its energy more efficiently). I don’t think it is a coincidence that my top three coffees of all time have been from the bourbon varietal.

Typical cup characteristics are low body, balanced, with a typically sweet profile that tends to lend it self well to espresso based coffees.

Links: SL 28, Typica, Cattura

Examples: Brazil Fazenda Cachoeira Bourbon,El Salvador Finca La Fany Bourbon, Rwanda Murambi Bourbon, El Salvador La Ilusion Bourbon

Keeping the weekend theme going og Geisha thought it needed to be added to the list of varietal posts.

Varietal:Geisha (or gesha)

Origin:Ethiopia

Grows Best at:post 1500 masl

Type:Heirloom

Prevalent in:Ethiopia, Costa Rica and Panama

Predominant Colour:Red

Fruit size:Standard

Leaf Characteristics:Elongated thin and long

Plant Characteristics: Tall thin, elongated leaves

Geisha is a controversial varietal when found in central america that is for sure. Extremely rare at the moment although expect to see lots in the coming years. Made famous around five years ago by panama Hasienda La Esmerelda. and the best of panama competition.

Little known it was originally introduced to central america in Costa Rica (1953 est) not Panama as many think. Originally from a south western Ethiopian town of Gesha its an heirloom varietal, that is low yeilding, thin and spindly branches open to strong winds, and pest friendly as they come (although resistant to coffee rust). The leaves are very long and thin too and grows very tall (if not a little gangly).

Can grow and many altitudes, but anecdotal evidence shows this only shines at real big elevation (post 1500 masl) lower altitude coffee tends to be of poorer quality than those from higher up.

Although esteemed in coffee circles the fact its a geisha is no guarantee of quality although when it is right it has potential to be amazing.

Special Notes:An example of this can be found in the Costa Rica La Candelilla Tarrazú 100% Geisha El Quemado lot