We’re very lucky to have some very special relationships with growers all over the world. Each of them very special in their own way, but this one does stand out as a little unique.

From Bahia is one of our direct trade coffees and was this weeks In My Mug

Its a long one so you may not be able to watch 27minuete, but if you are not I beg you to watch this 6 min from it

It’s a long one so you may not be able to watch 27 minutes, but if you are not I beg you to watch this 6 min from it.
So the coffee

Back for a second year, we are so lucky to have a world exclusive of this farm’s coffee. Part of our direct trade relationships in Bahia, Brazil, this farm was on its knees when we visited last year.

Fazenda Terramater, Owned by Adeodato Meneze, who has been the custodian of this unique farm since the nineteen eighties. It’s not your normal specialty coffee farm, in fact I don’t think I’ve been anywhere more different to the norm.

With last year’s production of just 8 bags, not because it wasn’t possible to produce more (in its heyday this farm produced over 200 bags), but as a result of the farm being disorganised and without a market to sell it to, and no motivation. Another factor was Adeodato’s blind belief in biodynamic farming which has the biggest effect on yield I have ever seen. He refuses to use any external fertilisers apart from the branches, leaves and fauna that fall to the ground from the surrounding plants. There is so much shade and so many trees. This year we’re up to 28 bags, because he has somewhere to sell them to (us) as a world exclusive coffee, and he is excited abut coffee again.
Adeodato explained that there are lots of birds and animals in the area and if he cut down the trees there would be nowhere else for this wildlife to go. A very clever man, with a degree in agricultural engineering, he spent much of his working life as a scientist. He is also very passionate about biodynamic farming and organic practices. The two must constantly be at odds with each other.

In November 2009 this was the very last farm visited during my trip to Bahia, in fact it was whilst I was on my way back to the airport. Luca, my guide, and one of the leaders of the group of farmers, was not overly keen to show it to me. He kept saying that it was a very different farm and unusual, but that was a red flag for me to want to see it even more.

Upon arrival, I was greeted by two lovely big dogs (Hugo Chavez and Che Guevara), the most amazing family home and a quirky but very relaxing place to be. A ponytailed older guy came out and the first thing he asked was “Americano”? He then went into a rant, and the only words I could really pick out were George Bush. The man turned out to be Adeodato Menezes, the farmer at Fazenda Terramater. He was a bit cautious of me, and I think many visitors have passed through without following up. I enjoyed the visit but for such a relaxing place, I felt a little uneasy, nothing I could put my finger on, but uptight.

This year’s visit could not have been more different. I felt so at home, Adeodato’s wife had cooked us the biggest meal I had ever seen. We chatted (I have some great photos of us chatting and I don’t speak Portuguese whilst he doesn’t speak English, but we are deep in conversation). A brilliant visit and one of the highlights of the week for me.
This farm is located in the Chapada Diamantina region which is half way between the Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn. With an altitude ranging from 1,050 to 1,200 metres it provides the ideal microclimate for coffee farming. The Chapada Diamantina region is the largest biodynamic coffee producing region in Brazil with over 600 workers and their families involved in this form of agriculture.

Biodynamic agriculture is the oldest consciously organic approach to farming and gardening and is one of the most sustainable in existence. It is founded on a holistic and spiritual understanding of nature and the human being, and builds on the pioneering research work of Rudolf Steiner. Has Bean is the first (and at the time of writing, only) Certified Biodynamic Roaster in the UK.

I’m going to give you my Has Bean Steve summary of what biodynamic is in one short sentence. Biodynamic means the farmer gives a stuff about the farm, the land, the animals on the farm and the people that live and work on it. Like the sound of it? Yes, me too, and that’s why we are involved at the ground level. Ignore the hooky cooky stuff you may have heard about it and remember this – as long as growers follow the good principles of biodynamics then that’s good for the cup, the environment and everyone involved.

In the cup you can tell that this has been processed with passion and vision of a farm reinvigorated. Last year we talked about the processing being done off site to improve the cup, but Adeodato convinced me that lots had been done to improve the processing this year, and expressed how much he wanted keep it on the farm. I thought about it and worried that if we did move it away that we may loose something in the cup. It’s the craziest processing but it’s doing something right.

There is a woody/bark base to this coffee that I love. I am sure lots of this is because of the food the plants are using from the trees. It’s not just shade grown, it’s a wonder how it grows at all the amount of overhead cover. Tree branches fall to the ground and decompose feeding the soil, this is all the fertilisation that’s used. We also have an experiment of a small batch from a different part of the farm that is starting to prove this methodology has an impact in the cup. It is also to do with the vareital ‘National’ in which I have found this attribute in the past. It then has a chew-like sweetness that has changed to a chocolate eclair style sweet. It finishes on the bark like base of which it began. This is a pulped natural but you will be forgiven to think it’s a natural in the cup, and almost a blend. This is the character of the processing in every cup, this is why I am happy we decided to keep the processing on the farm. Don’t think woody in a bad way, it’s in a very good way.

Farm: Fazenda Terramater
Farmer: Adeodato Menezes
City: Chapada Diamantina
Region: Bahia
Country: Brazil
Farm Size: 20 Hectares
Coffee growing area:9 Hectares
Altitude: 1100 masl
Varietal: Typica and National
Processing System: Pulped Natural

You can buy it here

All good things to come to an end, the wonderful Madam Popa we have been stocking has now run out, and as sad as that is, the good news is we have found a lovely organic Sumatran to replace it.

Although sharing a lot of properties with the Madam Popa, it is also full of differences , with the biggest hit of leather I have found in a coffee. But enough I present to you, Sumatra Aceh Tengah Organic

The growers that produce this coffee are located around the town of Aceh Tengah, close to Lake Laut Tawar in the centre of Aceh Province in the far north-west of Sumatra and are part of a organic mill.

There are very few coffee estates or even co-ops in Sumatra. Instead, a huge number of tiny growers – farms rarely exceed three hectares – sell small quantities of coffee at their local village market. These farmers, many of whom are women, bargain hard and prices for semi-prepared coffee are very high compared to Latin American and African standards.

The local market system means that traditional notions of ‘traceability’ do not apply in Indonesia. This makes our choice of milling partner absolutely crucial.Our import partner with this coffee agreed to pay significantly more than any other buyer for first refusal on their pick of the crop coffees, this is the only way to guarantee quality from Indonesia on an ongoing basis. The mill in Medan is clean, efficient, well-managed and staffed by a legion of hand pickers, all of whom receive at least the government minimum wage – with many earning more than this with performance related bonuses.

In the cup expect some big bold notes. A little bit of leather on the front end, mixed with earthy tobacco tones, and a HUGE body that carries on and on. Not for the feint of heart, this is a big old coffee.

Coffee: Aceh Tengah Organic
Farm: Numerous organic certified small growers around Aceh Tengah
Varietal(s): Various
Processing: Semi-washed
Altitude: 750 -1,500 metres above sea level
Owner: Numerous small growers
City: Aceh Tengah, Lake Toba
Region: Aceh Province
Country: North West Sumatra, Indonesia

A firm familiar favourite returns to the website after many months being away. Bolivia Machacamrca has become a staple for us at has bean, a coffee I am very happy to be judged by all day long.

For those who I have not bored in the past with the story, we bought this from Cup of Excellence and have since built a relationship with the farm where we buy everything from them. What we thought was 12 months supply we wiped out in six last year, where we did a very special in my mug (see below) which sold out the coffee we had in just three weeks what should have lasted half a year.

This week its back and is the InMyMug from the coming back in. At time of writing its been on the site for less than 24 hours and we have sold 5% of it. I am sure just an initial spike from everyone waiting, but a very special coffee. This weeks in my mug is below

So anyway the coffee is below and you can buy the remaining 95% here

The legend is back. This is a huge, huge coffee, one of our most important and one of my all time favourites. This is a world exclusive coffee, we buy everything from this farm, and we are the only ever buyer of this coffee. It has become the coffee I think we can be judged by, and this year judge away.

Machacamarca de Berenguela is an old farm in Sud Yungas, Bolivia, that has belonged to the Andrade family for over 150 years. Its more than 100 hectares are located on top of a small mountain, looking out towards the high snowy peaks of the Andes as well as the rugged foothills that spill onto the tropical plains of the Beni. The adobe walls of the old farmhouse are a meter thick, and the ancient chapel (with a resident ghost) plus its belfry with heavy bronze bells crowns an open and serene landscape.

In the 18th and 19th centuries Machacamarca was a traditional coca-leaf producer, but in the middle of the last century Victor Andrade drastically altered the productive scenario by planting groves of citrus fruit and various forest tree species. Coffee, however, was always present “for home and family”. Grandmother Maria, daughter and grand old lady of this land, did not conceive “store-bought” coffee, preferring to personally roast and grind her coffee in a small wooden mill each morning in order to have her coffee “as God meant it to be”.

Towards the end of the 1990′s, with the precipitous drop in the citrus market and a problem with the citrus trees, the cultivation of coffee was expanded in earnest by planting varieties known for their quality and resistance in the shade of tall “siquili” trees, favored by hummingbirds and honeybees. Slowly the Andrade family has sought to improve its product, convinced that superior-quality coffee is one of the answers to the environmental drama of the Yungas valleys, seriously threatened by indiscriminate cutting-down of the forest and the proliferation of coca-leaf plantations.

We first stocked this coffee from the 2007 Cup of Excellence lot, and it very quickly became my favourite of that year. It also proved to be one of your overall favourites regardless of its Cup of Excellence price premium. This is now the third year of building on this relationship, culminating in me spending the week in July 2010 living with the family, picking the coffee and helping with processing. It was one of the most stunning weeks of my life, and the hospitality of Mario and Maria was amazing.

This coffee needs its own scoring system. It is one of the most complete, rounded and balanced coffees I have ever tasted. Sweetness of caramel and chocolate, mixed with a white grape acidity that adds acidity to more sweetness, then the big body, smooth aftertaste that lingers into milk chocolate. It’s as close to my perfect cup as I have found. Add to a milk based drink and it turns into a big doughnut full of sweet caramel.

Farm: Machacamarca BV

Farmer: Maria and Mario Nina Lupe del Rosario Andrade

City: Chulumani

Region: Sud-Yungas

Country: Bolivia

Farm Size: 67.00 Hectares

Coffee growing area: 5.00 Hectares

Altitude: 1790 masl

Variety: Criollo (80%), Caturra (20%)

Type of Soil: Clay

Average Annual Rainfall: 1,790 mm

Type of Shade: Hardwoods, citrus

Weeding: Twice per year

Pruning: Sanitary pruning

Processing System: On-site wet processing, solar drying

You can buy it here

So not only one here, but three new coffees from what is familuar to many of you.

This is a farm world exclusive, we buy every bean from this amazing farm. There are two varietals or Acaia and of Canario (both unusual and both stunning). On the Acaia we also have Natural and a pulped natural offering.

Because there are three, I’m not going to put the write ups here, but take a look at them here.

Brazil Inglaterra Acaia Natural 2011

Brazil Inglaterra Acaia Pulped Natural 2011

Brazil Fazenda Inglaterra Canario Pulped Natural 2011

The last in three coffees from Aranquan this time a peaberry puled natural, to join the natural and washed from the same farm. Its taken us a little longer to get right because the peas have been tough to get right. But we are now there and I hope you take a look at them.

This is part of our direct trade agreement in Bahia, Brazil this year and is a brand new coffee for us. It’s also biodynamic coffee for those who care, but I know all of you will care that it is really tasty.

This is the farm that I stayed on during my stay in Bahia for the whole week in 2010 (and the previous year) with Luca Allegro. Luca was a great host, we ate, drank and had a wonderful time, chatting until the early hours. Luca lives in Salvador and the farmhouse is a wood cabin that the family go to at weekends. Luca also lives in it during harvest. The rest of the time the farm is managed and looked after by Nelson Ribeiro from Fazenda Floresta which is the neighbouring farm and he is a very, very close friend of Luca.

They work as a double act, Luca finds the buyers, looks after the export, deals with all the paper work, Nelson does what he is amazing at, processing milling and bagging the coffee. This time a pulped natural and to the same high standards as the washed and naturals we have had from them.

The farm has been in Luca’s family for many generations, but had become run down, still producing but not very productive. But around 4-5 years ago Luca decided to focus on raising production and the quality of his coffee in tandom with Nelson. Luca has planted a whole heap of new varietals. One of the most interesting is this one, the Acauan, a new varietal to me that produces around 40% peaberry. This is the first time I have come across it, and its a cup profile I am liking very much.

So in the cup this is super super super sweet golden syrup, reminding me of flapjack, with a toasted nuts sprinkled on the top, another huge mouthfeel a cup of delciousness

Farm: Fazenda Aranquan
Farmer: Luca Allegro
City:Chapada Diamantina
Region: Bahia
Country: Brazil
Farm Size: Hectares
Coffee growing area: Hectares
Altitude: 1200masl
Varietal: Acauan
Processing System: Pulped Natural

You can buy it here

More more more, and not even half way through Another new coffee to share with you, and this one is a little special. A direct trade, and world exclusive, we buy every beans from this farm, but you can read all about this below

Another of our Direct trade coffees, this from Bolivia and organised from my trip to Bolivia last year. This is a world exclusive as we buy every bean from this farm.

The owner of this farm is Feliciano Ramos, who is 42 years old originally from the city of La Paz. His father was a potato and barley producer, where Feliciano used to help him in the production and harvest.In 2002 he decided to move to Caranavi, which is located in the sub andes valley.

Initially he rented a coffee farm for two years where he began his education in coffee, but also began saving to have his own farm. After two years, he bought a farm of around 10 hectares, Finca Loayza. The farm is located on top of a small mountain, looking out towards the high snowy peaks of the Andes. The farm only had 2 hectares of old coffee plantations. But Feliciano has continued to raise this when able to with new plant stock, selecting different varietals for the terrain.

Feliciano is married to Tomasa Condori and they have 5 children who are all of school age, but do help their parents after school with the farm.The coffee is the only source of money for the family, and it is very important that they continue to produce great coffee.

In the region of Caranavi and the Yungas valleys, there is a serious problem of coffee being ripped out and coca leaf planted (which is legal in Bolivia) but this has a big environmental impact on the soil, forests and the communities. But coffee is seen as a good alternative to this if good prices can achieved, and is much kinder to the environment. With this in mind Feliciano is currently at stage 2 of his organic certification, and will be certified organic next crop providing all goes to plan.

This coffee is sold as a washed coffee, and I guess that it is. But I think the same thing is going on here that was going on with Machacarmarca, and was puzzelling me until my visit this year. Washed coffee is normally placed in a fermentation tank to remove the sticky layer on the outside of the seed after removing the fruit. But I don’t think this coffee has been fermented, but it has been through a pulping machine a second time using the scrubber part of the pulper, then left to dry like pulped natural, just without most of the mucilage, a hybrid process that I really like the final result.

In the cup this was a tough one to nail. Very complex and lots going on. Think of it like two cups. when its warm its all acidity, loads of cherry, keylime pie with biscuit sweetness, mixed in with a dark chocolate aftertaste. But as it cools think caramel, increased sweetness and delicious mouthfeel. I am so excited to have secured all the coffee from this farm, its a huge coffee, and I am sure will be a huge one for us this year

Farm: Finca Loayza
Farmer: Feliciano Ramos Aruquipa
City: Caranavi
Region:Franja se los Yungas
Country: Bolivia
Farm Size: 10.00 Hectares
Coffee growing area: 8.00 Hectares
Altitude:1635 masl
Variety: Caturra (20%) Catuai (40%) Tipica (40%)
Type of Soil: Clay
Type of Shade: Orange,Mandarin and Inga (sinquili) Trees
Processing System: On-site wet processing, solar drying

Buy it here